Mountaineering training sans mountains...

If you'd have told me five years ago that I'd be living in MN, I wouldn't have believed you. The goal was to return to WA, Ph.D. in hand, and start enjoying the PNW lifestyle (i.e., buying a bungalow near Green Lake, biking everywhere, and reading the Stranger while drinking Mac & Jacks). Then again, at that time, I was a naive chemistry major fresh out of UW just about to start graduate school in the midwest. Why would I leave the mountains, salt-water, and mild climate behind? Simple, I went where chemistry took me.

Minnesota: L'Etoile du Nord and Land of 10,000 Lakes

Thus far, MN has a lot going for it: the weather is great, there are many opportunities for outdoor recreation, cost of living is low, and I have a sweet job. However, if one is training for alpine climbing, it is difficult to prepare for Rainier. For example, the highest point in MN, Eagle Mountain, is 2300' and has a topographic prominence of 1300'. Compare this to WA, where there are at least 13 mountains with prominences of > 2000'; four of these peaks have summits > 10,000'. Our target, Mt. Rainier, is the high point in WA (14,411'), has the largest prominence in the lower 48 (13,211'), and is a volcano to boot. How does one prepare to climb mountains in a region without?

I looked for the park with the most significant elevation change in the Twin Cities area and went there often. In my case this turned out to be Afton State Park. The park has 1600 acres, 20 miles of trails -- several of which give a net gain of 300'. After building strength and endurance, I began to work exclusively on hills in order to maximize my elevation gain. I would push as hard as I could up the hill and rest on the way back down.

Topo of Afton State Park -- I try to stick to the steep regions

Afton was also an excellent place to try out cold weather gear and rationing water/food. Hiking in the winter months let me test gaitors, gloves, and layering strategy. Spring hikes let me test my hard-shell layers in hot and humid conditions; the gear is worth the price as I can notice the superior breathability of eVent and Neoshell over my old nylon rain jackets. Was also able to compare base layers in cold and warm conditions -- wool is my preference under both conditions. As for rationing, I would only allow myself to break for water or food at set intervals. For example one 5 min break every hour at first, then one 5 min break every two and so on. As training progressed, the frequency of the breaks and quantity of water/food consumed decreased. I haven't compared this schedule to what will happen on Rainier. Hopefully I am close or am being more conservative.

Trying out gaitors, base layers, and trekking poles

Afton Park in January 2012 -- Training would take me from the river level to the bluffs 200 - 300' above the river

Afton in summer; a good place to try rain gear, pack organization, and rationing water/food for the climb

Thought I'd summarize my training/conditioning routine undertaken in the upper-midwest; we'll see how prepared I really am come summit day. The activities were selected based on suggestions in Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, seminars on mountaineering from local guides at Midwest Mountaineering, guidelines from Alpine Ascents Int'l, and whatever resources were available.

November - December 2011

Eased into a routine during this period. I hadn't exercised really at all while I was in college/graduate school and it showed.

Cardio:
Inclined treadmill 3x per week, 30 min per session

Strength:
Stair climber 2x per week, 30 min per session
Free weights for upper body, 20 - 30 reps, 2 sets

Hiking:
Afton State Park, 2 - 3 hrs w/ 20 lbs 1x per week (0 - 20 F)

January - February 2012

Increased duration and weight used in workouts. Also bought a house, moved, and pushed through important deadlines at work...

Cardio:

Inclined treadmill 3x per week, 45 - 60 min per session

Strength:

Stair climber 2x per week, 50 min per session

Free weights for upper body, 20 - 30 reps, 3 sets

Hiking:

Afton State Park, 2 - 3 hrs w/ 30 lbs 1x per week (0 - 40 F)

March - April 2012

Lost access to the equipment at my old apartment when I moved, so I had to change a few things.

Cardio:

Trail running @ Sunfish Lake Park 2x per week, 60 - 75 min per session

Strength:

Nordic Track 2 - 3x per week, 30 - 50 min per session

Free weights for upper body, 20 - 30 reps, 3 sets

Hiking:

Afton State Park, 3 - 5 hrs w/ 40 lbs 1 - 2x per week (50 - 80 F)

May 2012

Few changes here, mainly increased weight and intensity during the hike(s) (i.e., working exclusively on hills, hiking two days back-to-back)

Cardio:

Trail running @ Sunfish Lake Park 2x per week, 60 - 75 min per session

Strength:

Nordic Track 2x per week, 30 - 50 min per session

Free weights for upper body, 20 - 30 reps, 3 sets

Hiking:

Afton State Park, 3 - 5 hrs w/ 50 lbs 1 - 2x per week (50 - 80 F)

Cascade River State Park, Day 1: 8 mi in 4 hrs w/ 45 lbs, 700' net gain in elevation; Day 2: 8 mi in 3.25 hrs w/ 40 lbs, 700' gain in elevation.

Lookout Mountain near Grand Marais, MN -- 1600' elevation (Lake Superior level is 700')

June 2012


I intend to keep to the May plan and not injure myself so close to our summit attempt.

Denali this weekend

Great post Cody!!

You're definitely kicking my butt in terms of working out... but I've been running, doing P90X Plyometrics and Yoga ("Best downward dog of your life...") and plan to climb Sable Mountain this weekend up in Denali National Park. We're staying at Teklanika campground and I wanted to find a closer hike to maximize my chance of seeing McKinley early in the morning before the clouds move in. Thanks Google Earth for allowing me to scope out the lay of the land before heading up there.

Sable Mountain with Mt. McKinely in the distance. Hopefully I'll be able to add a real photo after the weekend. 

-Patrick

How have you been training?

Now that we are down to the home stretch, I thought I would share my training experience with everyone. No one person is the same so what works for me may not work for you. I feel coming into this I had an advantage over my climbing partners (both very busy doctors). Ive been lucky enough to have a job that requires me to stay in good physical condition. Ive also been a member of the local Crossfit gym now for the past 18 months, which has definitely helped me out in my training to summit Rainier.

I thought I would post my training log just so everyone can see what type of physical training I have been doing. This doesn't include the day to day physical activities that life brings me, like shoveling gravel, painting houses or doing a hose drill at work. I must say I wish I was able to get more long hikes in. That would probably be the thing I would change if I had to do it all over again. On the other end of the spectrum, what I believe has really helped prepare me for this journey (we will see if I'm right in 3 weeks) are all the squats I have added to my workout. I've included squats into every workout in some different form. It could be front squats, which help prepare for the uphill portion while having weight on your back, back squats which strengthen all the muscles in your legs, or overhead squats to really strengthen your core. Other movements that are similar to squats are thrusters, clean and jerks, and snatch. Add these various squat movements in with the rest of the workout you've got a training program that will really help build the strength and endurance you need. Don't forget to target all the pillars of fitness (cardiovascular, stamina, strength, flexibility, power, speed, coordination, agility, balance and accuracy).

This is my rough training log. It doesn't include warmups, stretching or cool downs which are part of all my workouts.

Jan 7^th – Lime Kiln Trail with Pat. 5.2 mile round trip, 625 ft elevation gain, 2:45 total time.
Jan 12^th – FRAN @ Crossfit Marysville (CFM)
Jan 14^th – Big Four trail with Pat. Snow conditions approx 2 feet deep. 2.2 round trip, 200 feet elevation   gain.
Jan 17^th – 4 rounds 8-10 reps bench-press (135lbs), followed by 60 seconds of double-unders.
                  12 min AMRAP 9 deadlifts (165lbs), 12 hand release pushups, 15 box jumps (24”)
Jan 23^rd – CFM: 50 wall balls (20lbs), 40 KB swings (70lbs) 30 burpees, 20 pull-ups, 10 man makers (45lbs)
Jan 24^th – CFM: Teams of 3 Row 5000m, Run 4000m, 300 wall balls
Jan 26^th – 7 rounds of 7 OH squats (85), 7 chest to bar pull ups
Jan 27^th – 5 sets of 5 reps back squat (135,155,155,175,185), 4 rounds of 300m row, 15 SDHP (85), 10 burpees
Jan 28^th – 1000m row, 10 rounds of 5 thrusters (105) on the minute. Got a call after 5 rounds.
Jan 29^th – Snow shoe lake 22 with Pat. 5.4 miles round trip, 1350ft elevation gain. Pat broke his boot about ½ mile from the lake, had to turn around.
Jan 31^st – Mazama snow shoe. 2 miles round trip, 800 feet elevation gain, deep snow.
Feb 2^nd – 5x5 front squat (135, 135, 155, 155, 155) 20 min AMRAP in teams of 2, 400m run, 20 KB swings (53), 15 squats, 10 burpees, 5 hand release pushups.
Feb 3^rd – CFM: 5 sets of 2-2-2 clean, 10 sec rest between, 3 min rest between rounds. 3 rounds 100 DU, 30 KB swings (53), 15 box jumps (24”), 3 min rest between each round.
Feb 4^th – 5 rounds of 30 pull ups/burpee box jumps (max out PU then finish remaining of 30 with burpee box jumps.
Feb 6^th – Row 5K 23:55
Feb 7^th – CFM: 4 rounds of 4 min with 2 min rest between rounds. 500m row, 30 KB swings (53), then max pull ups – 21
                  3 rounds of 6-8 bench press (95) and burn out pushups with 1 min rest between rounds
Feb 13^th – Work up to heavy C+J (95, 125, 145, 165, 175, 175, 185).
12 min AMRAP 5 C+J (135), 10 box jumps (24”), 20 double under
Feb 15^th – Row 5K 21:34
Feb 19^th – Snow Shoe Pilchuck. Heather Lake trailhead to Pilchuck trailhead, 5.4 miles each way with 1700 feet of elevation gain, 7 hours.
Feb 21^st – CFM: 3 rounds 10 chest to bar pull ups, 10 burpees, 8HSPU.
                  Split jerks (95, 115, 135, 155, 175, 185)
Feb 22^nd – CFM: In teams of 4 perform a 25 min AMRAP rotating through 4 stations. 400m run, 20 box jumps, 20 burpees, 20 wall balls (20). Don’t rotate stations until entire team is finished with their station. 3 rounds + 2 stations.
Feb 24^th - Stretching. Trial run of burpees (for 12.1 open WOD). 3 min AMRAP burpees: 43
Feb 25^th – CFM: 12.1 open WOD 7 min AMRAP burpees: 88.
                  OH squat 5x5 (45, 65, 95, 95, 115). OH squat burnout (65), OH squat burnout (45)
Feb 27^th – CFM: In teams of three, 15 min AMRAP rotating rounds 3 dead lifts (225), 6 pushups, 9 box jumps (24)
                  Rest 5 minutes, then 15 min AMRAP of 5 pull-ups, 10 burpees
Mar 1^st – CFM: 4 rounds power clean 1-1-1, rest thirty seconds, 15 CTB pulls-ups, rest one minute (135-155-185-195)
                  12 min AMRAP 5 power cleans (135), 10 box jumps (24”), 20 double unders
Mar 2^nd – 1-1-1 snatch (95, 115, 135, 145, 150 fail)
Mar 3^rd – CFM: 12.2 open WOD 10 min AMRAP snatch in increments of 30 @70, 135, 165, 210 (50)
Mar 4^th – 4 rounds 300m row, 30 double unders, 20 wall balls (18), 10 pull-ups
Mar 5^th-9^th – Rest week
Mar 10^th – CFM: 12.3 open WOD 18 min AMRAP 15 box jumps (24”), 12 push-press (115), 9 toes to bar (5 rounds +20)
Mar 11^th – 20 minutes stairs w/ pack (35)
                  5 rounds of 90 seconds 12 front squat (95), max hand release pushups, 1 min rest
Mar 13^th – 20 min stairs (40)
                  3 rounds 10 power cleans, 20 pull ups, 250m row
Mar 14^th – Back squat: 5 (155), 3 (185), 3 (195), 1 (210), 1 (235)
                  4 rounds of 2 min 30 kb swings (53), row for max yards, rest 2 min between rounds
Mar 15^th – CFM: 2 rounds Row 500m, 10 HSPU, 20 shoulder to OH (135), 25 box jumps (24), 30 D.U.
                  Every time you stop in the middle of a station do 3 burpees
Mar 16^th - CFM: 12.4 open WOD 12 min AMRAP 150 wallballs (20), 90 D.U., 18 muscle ups (182)
Mar 18^th – Stairs/400m run/2min rest/400m run
                  800m run, 100 KB swings (53), 800m run, 200 D.U., 800m run, 100 H.R. push ups
Mar 22^nd – Practice 12.5 – 3-6-9 thrusters and pull ups
Mar 23^rd – CFM: 12.5 open WOD 7 min AMRAP 3-6-9-12…. Thrusters (100) CTB pull-ups (68)
Mar 24^th – 10 min AMRAP 5 C+J (135) 10 CTB pull-ups
Mar 25^th – Snow shoe Lake Kelcema. 8.4 mi round trip, 1600 ft elevation gain, 6 hours
Mar 27^th – 3 rounds 9-6-3 unbroken HSPU
                  1 mile run, 150 D.U
Mar 29^th – 3- 6 min AMRAP’s 3 hang cleans (115), 6 front squat, 9 HSPU – rest 4 min
10 toes to bar, 15 HR push ups, 20 KB swings (53) – rest 4 mins
30 DU, 20 air squats
Mar 30^th – CFM: Squat cleans,
                  4 rounds for time (4 min max) 5 wall climbs, 10 med ball cleans, 20 box jumps, 30 DU
Mar 31^st – 50 cal row, 50 pull-ups, 50 ground to OH (95), 50 sit-ups, 50 KB swings (70), 50 cal row
Apr 3^rd – 3000m row for time
                  3 rounds with 2 min rest between rounds 200m sprint, 10 burpees
Apr 4^th – Camp Muir attempt approx 6 miles round trip, up to 8400 feet, 8 hours.
Apr 7^th – Stretch, work up to C+J, 10 rounds of 5 C+J and 10 pull-ups on the minute
Apr 9^th – Squat sets of 3 (95, 135, 145, 155, 165, 175, 185, 195, 205, 225) Burn out @ 135 (8)
Apr 12^th – CFM: 5 rounds 200m run, 150m row, 20 DU – rest 1 min
                  5 rounds 10 SDHP (70 KB), 10 KB swings (70)
Apr 14^th – Ten 2 min rounds of row 250m, 5 burpees, max kb swings
Apr 18^th - Ten rounds of 2 C+J every minute 155, Row 2k
April 20 – 28 REST/PARTY IN CABO
May 3^rd – CFM: Max Split jerk (205 PR), 14 min AMRAP of 6 STOH, 9 HR push up, 12 TTB
May 4^th - Light squats, Tabata - Box jumps/Ball-slams/Dead-lifts (135)/Push press (75)
May 6^th - Row 3 k, 5 rounds of 10 C+J (135), 20 double unders
May 9^th – CFM: bench press 5-4-3-2-1 (135,155,155,175,185), 3 rounds - 500m row, rest 1 min, 400m run, rest 1 min - 15:38
May 11^th - Squats (135, 155, 185),50 squats for time (95)
40 pullups/20 STOH (85)/400m run - 30 pullups/20 STOH (65)/400m run - 10 pullups/20  STOH (45)/400m run
May 20^th – Row 3K
May 21^st – CFM: Work up to a heavy thruster, 20 min AMRAP 20 thrusters, 20 pull ups, 20 burpees
May 23^rd – CFM: 30 squat clean thrusters for time @115
May 24^th - 1000m row, 5min stairs, Seven rounds 8 back squat (95, 115, 135, 145, 155, 165, 175), 200m run, rest 1 min, 2k row 

OH Squat

Random workout (WOD) at CFM

Bird Ridge, Chugach State Park, AK

The UW School of Medicine graciously decided to send me to Anchorage for my OB/Gyn rotation so that I could train for climbing Mt. Rainer. Killer.

Over the first weekend of the rotation, I ventured south of Anchorage with my classmate, Travis Pecha, to climb Bird Ridge, a hike that I'm told is a favorite among the locals.

The 2.5 mile one-way hike starts at sea level and peaks at about 3400 feet (aka, straight the f*** up).

In lieu of my boot debacle at Lake 22 (see earlier post) and the fact that I've been pumping money into alpine gear, I regret to write that I was ill-prepared in regards to footwear for this adventure. Although I considered a few pairs of hiking boots from REI, Craigslist and even the local Sportsman Warehouse, I still hadn't found the right set up (basically looking for something waterproof, mid to high top, with a heel welt for my crampons just in case and not too expensive).

So, on the morning of the hike I had a choice to make.

Behind door number one were my old running shoes: sure, they took me across the finish line of my first (and only) marathon, but that was nearly 2 years ago. Plus they're about as impervious to water as cotton socks.

Behind door number two were my Koflach plastics alpines boots. Did I really feel like lugging 10 pound boots up the gravel hill? Rhetorical question, don't answer. I didn't. Plus they're built much more for snow and ice.

Behind door number three were my Romeos. Ah, my trusty Where-For-Art-Thou's. They're comfortable, they're leather and waterproof, they've got a bit of a toe lip that I was sure could handle my semi-auto crampons. Oh yeah, and they're completely flat soled and without any sole grips.

Easy decision, right?

Tossing on my Romeos and strapping up my alpine back filled with all my gear (most of it), I set out to summit our esteemed Bird Ridge.

View to the south looking up Turnagain Arm of Cook Inlet

Things actually weren't too bad initially - other than the fact that snowshoeing all winter does not prepare one for vertical trial hikes. Travis - in his light weight Sportiva trail-running shoes and small backpack - was kicking my butt up the hill. But that's ok, the tortuous and the hair, right?

Wrong.

Snow! I'm used to this!

There were a few patches of snow - bigger than the one above - that I attempted to cross. With the slick-bottom Romeos - which held about as much traction as cast-iron pan cooking bacon - I felt flat on my face twice before deciding to put on the crampons. 

Perfect, the heels are too wide. Like 40% of Americans, my Romeos were too fat in the rear - the crampons wouldn't fit.  

Looking south into the Bird Valley 

Looking across Turnagain Arm at the Kenai Mountain Range

The false summit of Bird Peak

Instead, with each step I was forced to kick deep into the snow to prevent falling on my ass while attempting to refrain from shouting vulgarities at the passing trail runners who sped by me in Nikes, eyeing my 40-pound alpine pack with looks of frank bewilderment. Shuddup, I'm training! 

Looking north toward Powerline Pass and Suicide Peak

At that point, Travis had already made it up past the false summit to the true summit at 3400 feet. I estimate that my ascent brought me to about 3000 feet - not bad for wearing my Montagues and sliding all over the place.

Penguin Peak, south of Bird Ridge

-Patrick

Link to Bird Ridge details from Alaska State Trails Program: http://dnr.alaska.gov/parks/aktrails/mapguides.htm 

Week off

Decided to take a week off from training and do some rehab. Of course I couldn't completely waste an entire week so I decided to do some aerial surveillance over our climbing area (on my way to Cabo San Lucas)

Looking NE, you can see part of our route, by Gibraltor Rock