Mountaineering training sans mountains...

If you'd have told me five years ago that I'd be living in MN, I wouldn't have believed you. The goal was to return to WA, Ph.D. in hand, and start enjoying the PNW lifestyle (i.e., buying a bungalow near Green Lake, biking everywhere, and reading the Stranger while drinking Mac & Jacks). Then again, at that time, I was a naive chemistry major fresh out of UW just about to start graduate school in the midwest. Why would I leave the mountains, salt-water, and mild climate behind? Simple, I went where chemistry took me.

Minnesota: L'Etoile du Nord and Land of 10,000 Lakes

Thus far, MN has a lot going for it: the weather is great, there are many opportunities for outdoor recreation, cost of living is low, and I have a sweet job. However, if one is training for alpine climbing, it is difficult to prepare for Rainier. For example, the highest point in MN, Eagle Mountain, is 2300' and has a topographic prominence of 1300'. Compare this to WA, where there are at least 13 mountains with prominences of > 2000'; four of these peaks have summits > 10,000'. Our target, Mt. Rainier, is the high point in WA (14,411'), has the largest prominence in the lower 48 (13,211'), and is a volcano to boot. How does one prepare to climb mountains in a region without?

I looked for the park with the most significant elevation change in the Twin Cities area and went there often. In my case this turned out to be Afton State Park. The park has 1600 acres, 20 miles of trails -- several of which give a net gain of 300'. After building strength and endurance, I began to work exclusively on hills in order to maximize my elevation gain. I would push as hard as I could up the hill and rest on the way back down.

Topo of Afton State Park -- I try to stick to the steep regions

Afton was also an excellent place to try out cold weather gear and rationing water/food. Hiking in the winter months let me test gaitors, gloves, and layering strategy. Spring hikes let me test my hard-shell layers in hot and humid conditions; the gear is worth the price as I can notice the superior breathability of eVent and Neoshell over my old nylon rain jackets. Was also able to compare base layers in cold and warm conditions -- wool is my preference under both conditions. As for rationing, I would only allow myself to break for water or food at set intervals. For example one 5 min break every hour at first, then one 5 min break every two and so on. As training progressed, the frequency of the breaks and quantity of water/food consumed decreased. I haven't compared this schedule to what will happen on Rainier. Hopefully I am close or am being more conservative.

Trying out gaitors, base layers, and trekking poles

Afton Park in January 2012 -- Training would take me from the river level to the bluffs 200 - 300' above the river

Afton in summer; a good place to try rain gear, pack organization, and rationing water/food for the climb

Thought I'd summarize my training/conditioning routine undertaken in the upper-midwest; we'll see how prepared I really am come summit day. The activities were selected based on suggestions in Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, seminars on mountaineering from local guides at Midwest Mountaineering, guidelines from Alpine Ascents Int'l, and whatever resources were available.

November - December 2011

Eased into a routine during this period. I hadn't exercised really at all while I was in college/graduate school and it showed.

Cardio:
Inclined treadmill 3x per week, 30 min per session

Strength:
Stair climber 2x per week, 30 min per session
Free weights for upper body, 20 - 30 reps, 2 sets

Hiking:
Afton State Park, 2 - 3 hrs w/ 20 lbs 1x per week (0 - 20 F)

January - February 2012

Increased duration and weight used in workouts. Also bought a house, moved, and pushed through important deadlines at work...

Cardio:

Inclined treadmill 3x per week, 45 - 60 min per session

Strength:

Stair climber 2x per week, 50 min per session

Free weights for upper body, 20 - 30 reps, 3 sets

Hiking:

Afton State Park, 2 - 3 hrs w/ 30 lbs 1x per week (0 - 40 F)

March - April 2012

Lost access to the equipment at my old apartment when I moved, so I had to change a few things.

Cardio:

Trail running @ Sunfish Lake Park 2x per week, 60 - 75 min per session

Strength:

Nordic Track 2 - 3x per week, 30 - 50 min per session

Free weights for upper body, 20 - 30 reps, 3 sets

Hiking:

Afton State Park, 3 - 5 hrs w/ 40 lbs 1 - 2x per week (50 - 80 F)

May 2012

Few changes here, mainly increased weight and intensity during the hike(s) (i.e., working exclusively on hills, hiking two days back-to-back)

Cardio:

Trail running @ Sunfish Lake Park 2x per week, 60 - 75 min per session

Strength:

Nordic Track 2x per week, 30 - 50 min per session

Free weights for upper body, 20 - 30 reps, 3 sets

Hiking:

Afton State Park, 3 - 5 hrs w/ 50 lbs 1 - 2x per week (50 - 80 F)

Cascade River State Park, Day 1: 8 mi in 4 hrs w/ 45 lbs, 700' net gain in elevation; Day 2: 8 mi in 3.25 hrs w/ 40 lbs, 700' gain in elevation.

Lookout Mountain near Grand Marais, MN -- 1600' elevation (Lake Superior level is 700')

June 2012


I intend to keep to the May plan and not injure myself so close to our summit attempt.